They need that Caution tape! Luckily I was allowed to pass it.
Wow, Whopping Inflorescence!!
Tillandsia funkiana x dasyliriifolia
Tillandsia beutelspacheri springs to mind.
Tillandsia 'Stupendo' 'Houston' x leonamiana
Tillandsia intermedia,
Tillandsia 'Nugget' crocata x duratii
T. chiapensis?
Please enjoy these beautiful images. I had the time of my life seeing these plants.
Some nice Dyckia's
I think this is Tillandsia novakii. Very nice color.
Hohenbergia. I bought some of these once, but sadly thanks to customs, they all died in transit.
A fantastic clump of T. funckiana. This species does not thrive in my conditions.
Hohenbergia.
I love these Sincoregelia or is it x Neophytum? Its hard to keep up with the naming of these!. I have a few different hybrids that are bulcking up well for sales. Including this one which i think is Sincoregelia 'Burgundy Hill'
A lovely mauve/silver Orphophytum
Pretty sure this is Billbergia vittata 'Domingos Martin'
Stunning, tall, thin Billbergia's.
Orthophytum cf. grossiorum
This is Neoregelia kautskyii. I have N. kautskyii x pauciflora. But wish i had kautskyii..
Aechmea egleriana
Dyckia 'Natalie'
Tillandsia fasciculata 'Tropiflora'
bulbosa hybrid
Tillandsia fasciculata var. densispica
]]>
]]>
Prized specimen. Deuterocohnia.
Ive seen alot of plants, and potted plants, this one is a beauty!
]]>
I have collected these beautiful botanical art illustrations of Bromeliads. Im very pleased to be able to share these with you here. I hope you enjoy them.
The names given are those that are on, or have come attached to the images. And comments, under each picture.
The label on this says T. pityrophyllum. T. ionantha
Tillandsia lindenii or Lindens Tillandsia. There is a great post about this plant (and many many others) by Derek Butcher on Bromeliads Australia page
Above. Another great artists dipiction of Tillandsia xiphioides.
Tillandsia recurvifolia. Recurved leaved Tillandsia. A beauty!
Tillandsia pulchella 'Delicate Tillandsia'. T. pulchella is now considered a synonym of T. tenuifolia var. tenuifolia. Pulchella, pronounced with a k (though i cant help but 'ch..'), means beautiful or pretty.
Tillandsia bulbosa. The label on this painting says ''The coloured variety' But im sure this is just natural colour during the flowering stage.
Tillandsia setacea. Setaceous leaved Tillandsia
Tillandsia psittacina
Above. Labeled as Tillandsia stricta Frosted Stiff leaved Tillandsia.
Tillandsia rosea
Tillandsia stricta (aeranthos)
This one is labeled 'Stemless Tillandsia acaulis' Which must be missnamed. I looks alot like an Orthophytum or Cyrptanthus.
Above. Tillandsia rubida. aka geminiflora. Grows well for me but slow to reproduce from offsets.
xiphioides. Queen of the Tillandsia's for me. So beautiful, elegant and with a heavy, sweet, Citrus fragrance
Tillandsia flexuosa. I've seen this plant flourishing and seeding around in my friends garden in Florida. It has a fascinating twisted growth habit and is viviperous. I have in the past acquired and successfully killed a few of this species.
]]>
I will start with some photos and add/update text as i go along.
The trees were covered in Tillandsia fasciculata, in stretches along the roadside especialy as we drove through the swampy areas.
Images above and below. I think this is Guzmania monostachia, native to Florida, i'am told a variegated form has been found in these swamps. But im not getting in there with all those Aligators!
Above is a leaf-less Orchid, Joe knew these plants were growing around here and that they were very hard to find. We searched and eventualy found this specimen. What you can see is a seed pod and the roots stretching out to the sides, no leaves! As i reached around the tree to get a good image of the Orchid just as i was about to step out bam! there was this snake, it frightened me at first but it didnt move so i managed to get these photos of it. Joe kept his distance! He had told me that he packed a snake bite kit and that there was a pair of rubber lips in there, i said 'what, to suck the venom out?' and he said 'no, to kiss your arse goodbye!' Im certain this is a Viper probably a Cottonmouth so it could have done me some serious damage. Not the first time ive had close encounters with poisonous snakes in the wild.
Some sort of Ipomea. Not a Bromeliad i know.
Vanilla planifolia, native to Florida
Im not sure, but im hoping this was T. pruinosa
A fantastic large growing plant that was common during my visit in Florida Tillandsia utriculata
This species, i think T. setacea was every where, covering many branches.
]]>
I just love growing Bromeliads. I enjoy growing the plants well until they look at their best - their full potential. Its not always easy.
Here is Neoregelia 'Big O' A wonderful small (but chunky) growing hybrid of N. 'Damask Rose' and N. olens. And comes to us from Lisa Vizant in Hawaii. From the BSI Cultivar registry ''In strong light, lime green leaves heavily spotted/ splotched reddish brown and a rosy red nest at blooming''
I will have a few pups of this for sale in the spring 2023.
]]>
]]>
Below, a giant leaved Orchid Bulbophyllum phalaenopsis.
Everybody must love Vandas. These orchids in humid tropical climates dont seem to need any compost medium at all. I always thought they might do well amongst my Tillandsia collection but im sure it would be too cold in the winter.
Below although not uncommon these Platycerium Stag Horn Ferns were particularly big specimens.
Then we went on to Bullis Bromeliads which wasnt far from R.F Orchids. Family owned and opperated since 1977 Now on their 4th generation, With over 20 acres of Bromeliads These guys are big movers on the Bromeliad scene with thousands of new hybrid introductions over the years. The staff were very helpful and friendly and showed us around on a golf buggy stopping regularly for photo opportunities.
Me and a giant Alcanterea. (possibly the biggest Bromeliad ive ever seen)
Above and below Aechmea woronowii
Below Neoregelia 'Tatiana'
Below Neoregelia 'Namascar'
As far as the eye can see.
Sincorea's! (if they are still called that) Love these, and im pleased to say i have a few different types in my collection.
A nice Palm (i know the name, or should i say knew! its not coming to me right now!) mounted with some interesting plants
A nice Cryptanthus. These dont grow to well for me.
I hope you have enjoyed looking through these pictures. There are many many more to come. Please leave a comment below just to let me know that someone has seen this blog.
]]>
]]>
]]>
There are many different forms of Tillandsia tectorum.
]]>RHS Cardiff Flower Show Gold medal and Best in show Award
RHS Malvern Flower Show Gold Medal
RHS Chealsea Flower Show Gold Medal
Royal Cornwall Show Large Gold Medal
RHS Hampton Court Flower Show Gold Medal
RHS Tatton Flower Show Gold Medal
Taunton Flower Show Large Gold Medal
RHS Rosemoor Flower Show Star award
RHS Wisely Flower Show Star award
So its been a very busy year, my second year at the RHS shows. My first show of the year was RHS Cardif Flower Show. The BBC had contacted me because they wanted to do some filming for Chelsea. They visited my house to do some filming, then they filmed me setting up my display at Cardif. Sandy Toksvig was the presenter. This footage made up 6 minutes of air time on a program called The Road to Chelsea. The first time ive ever been on national TV.
Here is a picture of my first display of the year 2019 It was a great accomplishment to be awarded a gold medal but i was even more thrilled to then be awarded the Best in Show as well.
I was very pleased with the display, it is very different to all the displays i had done the previous year 2018. The 2019 displays are much fuller with branches and plants covering more of the overall space.
To be continued.
]]>The first image is the large form of xiphioides and the second image is a dwarf form.
Will add more information to this post soon.
]]>A great, compact nudicaulis variety with lovely flower spikes and really long stolons. The leaves are green with red, becoming redder in full sun. These nudicaulis Aechmea's do well mounted on wood with plenty of moss.
I now have pups available of this great plant.
]]>On my first full day in Florida (day 2) I met up with a friend who I had met on social media. Joe Libertucci. Joe and his partner Betty were so welcoming and helpful and they really made my trip in Florida. Joe and Betty had lots of energy and wanted to show me around Botanic gardens, friends rare plant collections and gardens and all the best nurseries. We even went 'Swamping' In the Everglades looking for rare plants, Bromeliads, Orchids etc. Whilst keeping an eye out for Alligators and poisonous snakes! On this day we visited Fairchild Botanic garden, Jose's garden (a friend of Joe's) and did some general Florida plant spotting but sadly i accidentally deleted all the images i took on this day due to computer issues.
So on day three, first off we visited Joe's friend Mark. Mark is an ex Fireman and had plenty of stories to tell. He also had a very interesting garden with lots of palms and rare plants.
Marks garden was the kind that would stop any plants person in their tracks. Here by the sidewalk of his property, a nice clump of Aechmea blanchetiana, a very popular landscaping plant. And below a nice Vriesea in bud.
Above is an image of yours truly in Marks garden holding a specimen of what i think is Tillandsia novakii. And below an image of (no id)
Above, again, no id as yet. I would guess a Guzmania of some sort. I will have to ask Joe for some id's. And below a rare palm with an interesting leaf.
Above an image of Aechmea orlandiana cultivar, possibly 'White Knight'. And below Tillandsia gardneri i think var. rupicola.
Above image. These little tree frogs were very happy to be in the leaf bases of some of these Bromeliads. And below an example of vivipary, (pups along the old flower stem) This can happen in several species of Tillandsia such as T. intermedia and secunda.
And last off we have Tillandsia ('i think) subteres.
The four of us, myself Joe, Betty and Mark then went for lunch. And after that we went to see my first Wild Tillandsia!
I hope enjoy the journey. Stay tuned folks, i will add many more images soon.
]]>Neoregelia 'Jill' is quite a large growing plant. The main rossete in the image is 58cm diameter. The stolons are long at 10 to 12cm. The leaves are red and heavily speckled green, turning more intense red and orange and becoming red in the center in bright light.
]]>
Native to Brazil, Paraguay and Argentina from near sea level to several hundred meters altitude. It is known as the ‘Carnation of the sky’ by the Argentineans and is very popular with Hummingbirds that love the nectar. It grows into clumps of up to a dozen or more rosettes and is a regular and easy bloomer, flowering in the spring with lovely pink bracts and deep purple flowers.
]]>In the picture above - Bromeliad branch number 1. starting from the base of the branch we have Neoregelia 'Tequila' and 'Chinese Lacquer'. A miniature Tillandsia capillaris Andina. Two Tillandsia (species) v. tuluensis with silver leaves and pink buds. In the middle with the tall flower buds is T. diaguitensis, These were a delight when they finally opened with highly scented crisp white flowers. Three tall green and red leaved grass like T. juncifolia are along the top of the branch with Tillandsia mallemontii hanging down below them with their delightfully scented purple flowers. There is also T. aeranthos purple, a clump of T. ionantha rubra and at the tip of the branch a curly leaved T. streptophylla.
Bromeliad branch number 2. In the two pictures above we can see the second branch. There are three different 'tank type' Bromeliads near the base of it. Neoregelia 'Mo Pepper Please' N. Pink Mosaic' The larger red Neo i cant remember the name at present. On the left of the branch we have a very large Tillandsia cacticola in flower, and on the right above the Neoregelia is a nice three headed clump of Tillandsia espinosae. Above this is a beautiful specimen of T. reichenbachii in full flower with two spikes, the fragrance on this i remember was sublime and thousands of people at the flower shows that year got the chance to delight in its heavenly aroma. To the right along this branch is a mix of T. tectorum 'Snow' with its snow white leaves and super soft trichomes/hairs, and Tillandsia ionantha varieties that have blushed red in the sun and are in or about to flower. See image below.
Among the T. tectorums and T. ionanthas we can see (above image) on the left T. purpurea and above it the true Tillandsia argentea which is quite rare. Underneath the branch is T mallemontii and the dark leaves of a hybrid of T. albertiana and T. xiphioides. At the tip of the branch is another scented plant in flower, T. caerulea x straminea.
In the image above is Bromeliad display branch number 3. Again with Neoregelias at the base and these are Neoregelia 'Super Fire Ball' Above these is a group of Tillandsia caulescens with a hanging clump of the miniature T. tricholepis from the sub group diaphoranthema. To the right of this is the fine form of spanish moss with a specimen of T. cacticola in flower above.
Here, above we have more Tillandsia ionantha and T. tectorum 'Snow' creating a nice contrast and a lovely specimen of a purple leaved T. stricta. In the image below is a close up of the scented flowers of T. mallemontii.
In the picture above we have Bromeliad branch number 4. There is a nice mix of Tillandsia's on this branch, from the top left, T. paleacea ssp. apurimacensis, a species that grows very well for me it has lovely flower spikes, unscented. Left of this is more T. mallemontii, a flowering T. magnusiana and with the pink buds and purple flowers pointing to the right is T. (species) v. tuluensis. The vermilion red spike pointing left belongs to a clump of T. lorentziana next to this is a hanging clump of T. neglecta. Above this, reaching for the heavens is the highly fragrant T. diaguitensis and below that T. nana an uncommon species. Up on the right side of the branch is some clumps of Tillandsia rectifolia and there are also 4 nice curly T. streptophylla specimens. At the base of the branch is Neoregelia granada x 'Royal Flush' a gorgeous mid size Neoregelia. A red Neo ( Will add name later) and solitary N. 'Midas'. See Close ups below.
These 4 branches were part of several Flower shows that I attended in late 2019. I hope you have enjoyed this blog post. I really enjoyed creating the branches and i hope that they inspire other people to do something similar.
]]>
For this short blog I would like to showcase Tillandsia seleriana. It is a wonderful plant to grow and is one of the most amazing and extreme forms of growth in the Bromeliad world. It is shaped like a Rhino horn with big wide leaf bases that tapper to a point. The leaves are soft, mid green and covered in soft trichomes or hairs which make the plant feel like a Suede shoe.
This swollen plant base has makes a very interesting talking point because within these swollen leaf bases lives colonies of Ants. The plant and the ants have evolved together, symbiotically in a mutually beneficial relationship. The Ants have somewhere to live and the plant has an army of security guards and gains nutrients from their endeavours. There are several Tillandsia species that are capable of doing this. The technical term for a plant that hosts ants is a Myrmecophyte.
I will leave this a short blog and add more info and images over time.
If you like the post or want to ask any questions please leave a comment below.
Have a lovely weekend.
]]>
I have a lovely pot full of Aechmea winkleri. Its a plant that i have had in my collection for several years but had not realized its full merit. The plant in the picture has thrived on neglect with just an occasional watering, keeping the tanks topped up and wetting the root-ball.
I am testing a new camera at the moment. My last one broke 5 months ago so i have missed out on photographing many plants that have been in flower. I am hoping to be able share many Bromeliad pictures on this blog with new photos of plants from the collection and pictures from my Bromeliad photo archive.
If you like what you see and want to see more please leave a comment below.
]]>
With Christmas coming soon, im fully stocked with tons of really great plants. Nearly everything is in stock and im adding lots of new plants and rare species all the time.
I will keep you updated on new and great plants on the website via this blog.
Happy growing everyone X
]]>
Here is the wonderful Tillandsia secunda. This species is popular among bromeliad growers because it is easy to grow and makes a very large plant that has a really nice flower spike that also produces pups on the spent stem. This is a phenomenom called vivipary (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vivipary).
Tillandsia secunda comes from Ecuador where it grows at elavation on rocks and cliff faces and even terrestrialy. It has much larger and greener leaves than most Tillandsia species, the trichomes and hairs needed for the xerophytic high life environments of the silver leaved species are redundant or sparse and adpressed. The leaf bases hold some water unlike the true atmospheric species.
The flower spike on this T. secunda is awesome! Tall, branched, elegant, colorful and long lasting. The bracts are a pinkish red and the petals are thick, waxy and dark purple. The branches of the flower spike continue to grow and produce many of these flowers over a period of several months. These flowers are hetrostylous https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heterostyly which basicaly promote out crossing which insures genetic diversity withing the species. Much like 'pin and thrum' flowers in Primulas which i remember from early days of studying plants. This phenomenom is quite uncommon in Bromeliacea. The flower spike then goes on to produce pups/vegatative offsets which of course are geneticaly identicle to the parent. In the wild these 'propagules or pups weigh down the old flowered stem and would fall off and hopefuly take root elsewhere. As a third method this species also produces pups around the base on the plant, these are unlike most other pups from Bromeliads, they are called 'grass pups' and need to be removed from the parent plant and grown on as one would with seedlings.
Pictures show me holding a large mounted specimen of T. secunda 10/11/2019, showing the pups that have formed along the stem and also a grass pup at the base, these will be removed and grown on. There is a close up of these pups. And a picture of the plant earlier in the year in spike at one of my flower shows.
I have some nice grass pups available for sale on the website. These are perfect for growing on into your very own 'giant' Tillandsia secunda.
https://andysairplants.co.uk/products/tillandsia-secunda?_pos=1&_sid=21b433721&_ss=r
]]>Kind regards.
Andy :)
]]>Air plants are named so because of their ability to take all their nutrients from moisture in the air unlike most other plants which need to draw up nutrients through the roots.
To do this air plants absorb nutrients from any available moisture in the air such as rain, mist/fog or evaporating dew and from here they draw their nutrient source. They are also known as air plants because of their ability to fill a niche and grow as epiphytes in tree canopies, or on other plants such as scrub bushes and cacti. Some species can also be found growing on rocks and cliffs as (saxicoles/liphophytes), some have colonised telegraph wires and even houses and roofs. Others grow terrestrially in environments such as coastal deserts, stabilising sand dunes.
Tillandsia is a genus of over 600 species, with many man made and naturally occurring hybrids and varieties. They vary greatly in size and shape and come from a variety of habitats. The flowering process of these plants is also highly varied with many different colours and perfumes and in some species the flowering process can last six months or more.
Tillandsias are very versatile and fun to grow, there are so many different shapes, sizes and forms of growth making them highly collectable. A lot of fun can be had arranging them and they can be displayed in many ways making them perfect for people with less space to grow plants and with just a regular misting they are very care free and easy to grow.
]]>The appearance of the species is often the best indicator of it’s particular needs. For instance, the more silvery leaved species require, or will grow better in higher light levels. Species that are covered with fine hairs/scales or trichomes, giving them a soft hairy appearance, and species with fine leaves need good air movement or quick drying. In contrast species that are green or darker in colour, often with wider, shorter leaves and less or no visible trichomes hairs/scales require lower light levels, and will grow happily with less air movement in a more humid or mesic environment.
Generally Tillandsias grow best in the brightest conditions that you can give them. Especially the silver/grey leaved species, most of which will grow best in full sun, as long as the watering regime is upped to support this and they are not getting scorched, which can happen if growing them under glass.
During the spring and summer dappled shade or half a day sun is fine, but plants can be gradually acclimatised into higher light levels especially the silver leaved species, the greener species are fine with dappled shade all year.
***{include regularity of watering}
Air plants can be misted, wetted i.e. run under the tap or dunked/submerged. Rain water is always best for your plants because it has more trace elements and nitrogen than tap water, but tap water can still be used and a small dose of fertilizer can be added. Tillandsia’s do not like ‘hard water’ but ‘soft’ tap water is fine. I find the best time to water is in the morning, so that the plants can dry out during the day, also they cannot photosynthesis efficiently if they are wet. Grey/silver leaved plants need to be drying out completely between waterings.
For many heavily trichomed, silver/ grey species such as T. xerocraphica, tectorum etc. light misting is best because of their tendency to rot if left wet for too long. When misting your plants if the air movement is good you should be thorough and give them a good soaking. In the right conditions your plant will be drying within a couple of hours. Many species should be mounted on their side so that excess water does not sit for too long in the centre of the plant.
In the UK climate, spring, summer and autumn is when your Tillandsia will be growing the most and so watering more often at these times is important for optimum growth. During these months and when the weather is good, higher temperatures, sunny days and good air-movement, I water my Tillandsia collection every day, I sometimes give them an extra misting in the late afternoon or early evening as well if it is particularly hot 30c +. When the weather is cloudy and wet and humidity levels are high, I don’t water them as often.
Generally, through the spring, summer and autumn, you should be watering your plants 3 or 4 times a week and only once a week in the winter.
If the edges of your plants leaves start to curl inwards this can be a good indicator that your plant is not getting enough moisture and the watering regime can be upped.
This is a very important factor for the health of your Tillandsias especially after the plants have been watered. Tillandsias live of the air and air movement is key to success with growing these plants.
Plants can be placed near windows or vents that can be opened when plants are watered, or if in a greenhouse or conservatory/porch you can use a small fan perhaps on a timer. If plants are placed outside they will have all the air-movement they need.
The finer leaved species and species that are silver and with many visible trichomes/hairs such as T. tectorum or T. funkiana need the best air-movement and the greener smoother leaved species such as T. flabellata or T. cyanea can handle less air-movement and a more humid environment.
During the year (not in the winter when light levels and temperatures are lower) I use a seaweed based product to feed my Tillandsia’s. This is diluted at half the recommended dose into my spray bottle/mister and used with roughly every third watering which in the summer can be up to twice a week.
Tillandsia’s are perfect for growing indoors, you should choose a bright window or room that has plenty of natural light, East, South or West facing positions are best for most species. Be careful to place your plants away from heaters like radiators as this dry heat can dehydrate your plant, also be careful that your plant is not getting scorched too much behind a glass window, although many species can handle very high temperatures they can still be cooked especially if there is also a lack of air-movement. With indoor cultivation be careful also that your plant does not stay too wet for too long, you can always gently shake off excess moisture after watering, Tillandsia’s are most likely to rot if water is left for too long in the centre of the rosette.
Your Tillandsia will love being outside where it will get perfect air-movement and extra moisture from rain, humidity and evaporating dew in the mornings. If you are going away during the spring, summer or autumn it is also ideal to just place your plants outside where they can fend for themselves for months on end, even all year or until temperatures start to drop in the winter.
Tillandsia’s are generally pest and disease free. Occasionally they can be attacked by spider mites and mealybug insects.
Spider mites are very small and you will need a magnifying glass to see them but you may see small yellow patches on the leaves of your plant and very fine webbing between the leaves.
Mealybugs are small insects that you will be able to see in the leaf bases or in the centre of your plant, they are covered in a white cotton like substance.
The best way to be sure that your plants are pest free is by regular and close inspection of your plants. To do this you can inspect in-between the leaves and look down into the leaf bases and in the centre of the plant.
Giving your plant a good few hours submerged in water a few times a week with very thorough drying in between can often discourage these insects. Also plants can be dabbed or wiped with a cotton bud soaked in a rubbing alcohol solution. Or non soap based insecticides can also be used successfully.
If you wish to download and read this guide then please do – click the link to download the file ‘AA-Air-Plant-Care-Sheet.pdf‘ (118Kb)
Follow me on Facebook and Instagram for more tips on air plant care.
]]>Tillandsia’s have a very superficial root system that is only used for anchorage, this means that you have much flexibility in how you choose to display or grow your plants. A happy Tillandsia will root on to almost anything, but don’t worry if your plant does not root much, many plants grow to full size, flower and clump without hardly ever putting out roots.
I like to display my plants or mount them onto natural materials like drift wood or sticks, pieces of bark or even rocks. Very often and for convenience I just hang my plants from wire and often they just root out into the air.
When selecting mounting material like bark or drift wood it is important to choose material that is not decaying as this can invite pests and fungus that can in turn damage your plants.
Tillandsia roots
Plants can be placed on horizontal displays for tables or window displays or they can be tied to hanging displays such as drift wood, which makes them great for small spaces, windows in the home, balcony gardens or in the Conservatory.
When tying a plant to a mount care must be taken that the plant is not constricted as it grows, you can use small strips of old stocking, silicone wire, string or plastic coated wire, but remember Tillandsia’s are allergic to copper and some other metals so plastic coated wire is best. Glue can also be used especially for small, fiddly or delicate species such as T. ionanthas. If you use glue try to use a small amount on the leaf bases and not put any on the very base where roots or new pups can emerge.
Tillandsia ionantha, multiple plants mounted together
Multiple plants or even different species can be mounted together providing they require the same conditions as each other ie high light levels.
Mesic or more humid growing species such as Tillandsia punctulata and cyanea have more of a root system and so tying some bark chip and moss around the base of the plant when mounting is advisable or they can be grown in pots with a 60-40 % potting bark or pumice, with peat or coir mix, or similar.
Tillandsia fasciculata fully rooted into a pot of 100% potting bark
Follow me on Facebook and Instagram for tips and techniques for mounting and displaying your air plants.
]]>